You’ll find it around tiles, sinks and showers. It prevents water from seeping through the joints and ensures everything is watertight. Over time, however, even the best silicone seals become unsightly and unhygienic – they turn yellow, mould develops or the sealant becomes brittle. That’s when it’s time to remove the old silicone and apply new joints. This isn’t always easy, as cured silicone is notoriously hard to remove – but with our tips and tricks, even DIYers can reliably get the job done.
Why silicone joints need replacing
Old silicone joints don’t just look unattractive, they’re also unhygienic. Mould thrives in damp corners, and yellowed silicone can no longer provide a proper seal, even after thorough cleaning. Particularly in older installations such as showers or bathtubs, removal eventually becomes essential, as hidden mould often develops beneath the silicone.
If you want to renew your joints, you must first remove all traces of the old silicone. Only on a clean, smooth surface will the new sealant adhere properly.
Preparation: tools and materials
Before you start, gather everything you’ll need.
Essential tools:
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Joint scraper or silicone remover tool
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Utility knife or razor blade for precise edges
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Toothbrush for corners
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Spatula for scraping off neatly
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Cloths and household gloves
Optional: silicone remover or home remedies such as alcohol, vinegar essence, nail polish remover (acetone-based) or baby oil
Optional: hairdryer for applying heat
Safety tip: always wear gloves and ensure good ventilation, especially when using chemical removers. Protect surrounding tiles, sinks or worktops with masking tape to prevent damage.
Step 1: mechanical removal of silicone
The simplest method for getting rid of stubborn silicone is mechanical removal. With a joint scraper, utility knife or razor blade, most of the sealant can be lifted away.
Here’s how:
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Hold your tool at a shallow angle.
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Cut as close as possible to the surface without scratching it.
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Start with the larger areas, then tackle corners and edges.
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For precise work in corners, a utility knife is more effective – carefully guide the blade along the edges.
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Don’t cut too deeply. The risk of damage depends on the surface: ceramic can withstand more, while acrylic or plastic requires a lighter touch.
Tip: for delicate surfaces, use a plastic scraper to avoid scratches. It may take longer, but the surface will remain intact.
Step 2: using chemical aids
Really stubborn silicone often can’t be completely removed mechanically. That’s when chemical aids come in. These include silicone removers, alcohol or home remedies such as:
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Vinegar or vinegar essence: softens silicone and helps tackle mould.
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Nail polish remover (acetone-based): effective on small areas, less suitable for larger amounts.
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Baby oil: good for fine residues on delicate surfaces.
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WD-40 or washing-up liquid: may loosen minor remains, but won’t replace a proper remover.
Note: always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and test on a small, hidden area first. Allow the remover to work for long enough before scraping off. Once softened, the residue will come away more easily, leaving a clean result.
Step 3: dealing with particularly stubborn silicone
Sometimes silicone is extremely tough or very old. A handy trick is heat. Using a hairdryer or warm water, the sealant softens and becomes easier to remove. Apply heat sparingly and keep a safe distance.
Scratch prevention tip: work carefully to avoid damaging the surface. Keep your tool parallel to the surface rather than using a steep angle.
On more delicate surfaces such as plastic baths or painted finishes, take extra care. Even small mistakes can leave lasting marks. In such cases, it’s better to avoid metal tools altogether and use plastic scrapers instead – even if it requires more patience.
Step 4: removing all silicone residue
Even after mechanical and chemical treatment, small bits often remain. They can be tricky to remove, but they’re crucial for a clean finish.
Practical tips:
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Wipe away the last traces with a cloth and a little washing-up liquid.
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Use an old toothbrush for tight corners.
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Still stubborn? Apply a drop of nail polish remover or vinegar essence directly.
The goal is a smooth, clean joint where the new silicone can adhere securely. In some cases, especially with large or valuable surfaces, it may be worth calling in a professional.
Step 5: applying new silicone joints
Once the old sealant has been removed, you can apply new joints. For longer-lasting results:
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Use a high-quality silicone specifically designed for kitchens or bathrooms.
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Keep the joints clean and dry.
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Avoid harsh chemicals that could damage the sealant.
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Smooth the new joints neatly to prevent water from collecting.
Extra tip: quality sanitary silicone often contains antimicrobial additives that reduce the growth of mould.
Tips against mould & for better hygiene
Old silicone is particularly prone to mould. In bathrooms especially, mould can spread into corners and even beneath the sealant. To prevent this:
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Check old joints regularly.
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Remove mould early, e.g. with vinegar or washing-up liquid.
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Keep joints as dry as possible (e.g. wipe them down after showering).
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Clean away soap residues and care products, as they encourage mould and bacteria.
This way, your joints stay hygienic and mould has far less chance to develop.
Time to get started!
Do you have old silicone joints that need replacing? With the right tools – such as a joint scraper, spatula, utility knife or razor blade – and a bit of patience, even DIYers can manage it. Chemical aids like silicone removers are helpful for particularly stubborn remains, while home remedies like vinegar or baby oil provide good alternatives.
Work step by step, take care with sensitive surfaces and let removers sit long enough before scraping. That way, you’ll achieve a perfect result, and your new silicone joints will last longer, stay watertight and look clean.
Now it’s just a matter of putting on your gloves, gathering your tools – and saying goodbye to those old silicone joints!